With Lisa's help, the big beam was hoisted into place one end at a time and temporarily suspended by ropes and ratchet straps.
Posts installed:
Pegged together at the joints. Everything fit great!
With Lisa's help, the big beam was hoisted into place one end at a time and temporarily suspended by ropes and ratchet straps.
Posts installed:
After a little fine tuning with the chisel to get it all to fit, I pinned all the pieces except for the outermost posts. With the end posts still loose, the whole assembly (called a "bent" in the timberframer's world) can be tilted away from the wall so I can patch and paint the remaining exposed drywall seams before fastening everything to the stud wall.

We stayed at a cozy little resort at the edge of town and right on the water. 
We found a tandem kayak to paddled across the lake so we could explore the endless supply of uninhabited mangroves and beaches.
With a week of sun, sand and all the fresh food we could eat, we are back home to reality (frozen lakes and long underwear). Back to work...
Starting with just 3 timbers to see how it would go, I cut the joinery for a barn door header and support posts that will go on the east wall.
Next, i cleared everything off the concrete foundation walls and put down a sill board spaced off the floor with strips of 2" EPS foam. A top plate was screwed to the ceiling joists above.
Next, sheets of 2" EPS foam were adhered to the wall with spray foam and a stud wall was built inside of it. (I used EPS here for its vapor permeance, to dry out any moisture that may come through the foundation and prevent any possibility of mold). I worked on a 4 ft. section at a time, and short cutoffs were screwed horizontally to the stud wall to temporarily hold the EPS in place while the spray foam cured. All the joints were sealed with additional spray foam, so that no air can get behind the EPS and form condensation.
Finally, done for now. Eventually, we will add blown-in cellulose to the stud cavities then cover the works with drywall...but for now, I've got my workout room back (and it's a lot warmer down there!).
The silo was outfitted with our friends' leftover christmas tree and decorated with a variety of homemade treasures.
With all my lumber, tools and sawdust removed, Lisa and company did an amazing job of bringing the barn to life.
The day was magical, and we couldn't have enjoyed our wedding more! Lisa is posting more details at http://www.lisaandshawnwedding.blogspot.com so you can go there to see it all.
Last year, our parents gave us an antique oven that sits on top of the woodstove. The heat from the stove radiates through the open bottom of the oven, and the temp is regulated by how much wood we put in the stove. There is a thermometer inside to let you know how warm it is getting. It isn't very large, but we can fit our smaller baking dishes inside. This morning, we cranked out a couple batches of gluten-free banana walnut muffins for breakfast. Yum!
I salvaged and reused as much material as I could- the lights are vintage pieces that I rewired with new parts. The mirror glass came out of an old piece found in the garage (I made a new frame for it with barnboards). The vanity was a $25 garage sale find that I had to refinish to bring it back to life. the sink and toilet were purchased new. all of the woodwork/trim came from the old barn timbers, milled into boards with our backyard sawmill. After considerable research (I have probably spent far more time researching toilet performance than most people spend looking for a new car), we decided to go with a Caroma Sydney Smart dual flush toilet. This is probably the lowest water usage model on the market (not counting composting toilets, of course). Hopefully it will perform as expected...
Future plans call for a japanese soaking tub in the corner of the room, but it will be a year or two before I get to that. So for now, I built a little storage chest (from leftover lumber scraps) to cover the plumbing stubs and fill the space. The woodsy floral arrangements are Lisa's handiwork.
A friend helped me build the barn-style doors for the bathroom entry and the utility closet (this one is actually a pocket door) using wood that I milled from the old barn timbers. The crossmembers were given an oak-colored stain for aesthetics.
Once the lid is put on, a single 3500W electric heating element extends down the center of the coil to heat the tank water. We also purchased a heat pump retrofit kit (www.airgenerate.com), which will be installed in the spring so that we can heat the water more efficiently and use the exhaust air for home cooling...more on that later. Since the tank is not pressurized, I can also modify it to accept solar heated water when we get to that phase in the future.
We paid $350 for the heater- a little more than buying a conventional tanked electric heater, but a great price for the benefits of this design.
Even though I may complain at times about preparing firewood every year, I couldn't be more thankful that we have this as our one and only source of free, local and sustainable heat. "He who cuts his own wood is twice warmed"...amen to that.
In preparation for the interior trimwork, Lisa put the final coat of paint on the walls. We choose a soft, antique white Bioshield Clay Paint for the lower level of the barn. It's a zero-VOC, odorless finish that's probably safe enough to drink.
After re-sawing the old barn timbers into fresh pieces, I trimmed out the milkhouse (the entryway into the barn, which has a coatroom, bathroom and utility closet).

I dropped the roof joists down from the high finished ceiling to give them a nice exposed look. I cut square holes in the drywall to slide the timbers through and attached them to the studs inside.
Here is the unit hanging from the ceiling in the utility closet. I connected some temporary ductwork through the wall, just to get the fresh air into the main area of the barn.
The HRV works by means of a counterflow heat exchanger, which maximizes the transfer of heat from the stale exhaust air to the fresh supply air from outside. With claims of 92% efficiency, it seemed to defy the laws of thermodynamics in my mind, so I was skeptical at first. But it works great! Inside the unit, the outgoing air flows one direction and the incoming air flows the opposite direction, so that the coolest outgoing air just barely warms the cold incoming air, and the warmest outgoing air warms the already-sorta-warm incoming air. By arranging the airflows in this way, the incoming air captures nearly all of the heat from the outgoing air before it leaves the house. Of course, I had to put a thermometer in the fresh air duct to see how well it was doing- On a day when the outside temp was around 10F, and the building was at 58F, the fresh incoming air was being 'preheated' to about 53 degrees. At this rate, the HRV will pay for itself in no time!