tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-387287042024-03-14T00:00:22.312-05:00Green Gate Guest HouseLife in the Great North and BeyondShawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.comBlogger194125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-8986710876473242832011-04-15T08:33:00.002-05:002011-04-15T08:38:55.908-05:00Moving on...As I wrap up the big projects in the barn and the vision of a grand opening appears on the horizon, it is time to start advertising more aggressively. We recently launched a new website at <a href="http://www.greengateguesthouse.com/">www.greengateguesthouse.com</a>, so please check us out. The blog has been incorporated into our new site, so future updates can be found there instead of here. Please link up if you're interested!Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-31272754154054152162011-03-11T18:58:00.004-06:002011-03-11T20:19:52.995-06:00The Stairmaster.I started referring to the staircase as the 'stairmaster' because of the mental workout I get trying to build this thing. My last project was the railing, and I thought I could bend some wood strips around a curved plywood form to create the curve that was needed- however, after making the form I realized the railing must twist and curve 3-dimensionally, like a helix...and so my simple 2-dimensional form idea was useless. Rats. After a long period of head-scratching, googling (is that officially a word now?) and burning mental calories on the stairmaster, it seemed the best way to do it was to form the railing in place. So, the riser boards were removed and studs were lag-screwed to the framing to create an appropriate form for the railing path. Then, using every clamp in the arsenal, I glue-laminated maple strips like this:
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<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5582995030372609714" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CHk7T7P0LRE/TXrIZnAhbrI/AAAAAAAABnY/qIJT-a5sVhw/s320/100_5288.jpg" border="0" />
<div>Since there are two distinct curves to the staircase, I had to build two railing sections, separated where the pitch changes. Here is the upper section being clamped to the forms:
<div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b5ultgpO-dg/TXrIZwVHbYI/AAAAAAAABng/WB7O9q2p6fE/s1600/100_5293.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5582995032874904962" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b5ultgpO-dg/TXrIZwVHbYI/AAAAAAAABng/WB7O9q2p6fE/s320/100_5293.jpg" border="0" /></a>
After removing them from the forms, I realized that I hadn't placed my uprights as accurately as I should've and the railing was pretty 'wavy'...another lesson learned on the stairmaster of life. Considerable reworking ensued, and I was able to get it trued up reasonably well, or at least good enough for a barn. I epoxied the two sections together, then painted the railing white to cover all my mistakes. I installed it with wrought iron balusters, tightly spaced to meet the latest code requirements (either babies are getting smaller, or their parents are becoming less attentive...). Voila!
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<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5582995056042286290" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7jtms7UFCpQ/TXrIbGopnNI/AAAAAAAABnw/Bor7NbaUfsE/s320/100_5330.jpg" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5582995041656001570" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Agh1F0zBCh4/TXrIaRCsVCI/AAAAAAAABno/32-afjNOIKg/s320/100_5328.jpg" border="0" />
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5582995059841505650" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F9-AwH6-rY0/TXrIbUydGXI/AAAAAAAABn4/u1rHx-dzbIk/s320/100_5332.jpg" border="0" />
<div></div></div></div></div></div>Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-2129172072775148152011-02-28T14:18:00.008-06:002011-03-10T15:24:57.056-06:00A country kitchen.After two years of kitchen building, I now understand why most people leave it to the pros and buy all this stuff! I'm finding my 'developing' craftsmanship results in a lot of imperfection, but it blends in well with the country look...here's the finished product: <div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div>
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5578905944680700034" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o-4Kry0O8yA/TWxBZfwCGII/AAAAAAAABm4/XMGvNo7z1Xw/s320/100_5322.jpg" border="0" />
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5578905951813339714" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cg-_35qEko4/TWxBZ6UlikI/AAAAAAAABnA/UOPythUmnUw/s320/100_5324.jpg" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5578904476099304594" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fiiAF5FM_W4/TWxAEA28XJI/AAAAAAAABmY/RqF-Bg96fYU/s320/100_5314.jpg" border="0" />
Open shelving made from pine slabs:
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5578907422594320242" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SS5ixGCv2hc/TWxCvhaGR3I/AAAAAAAABnQ/V2JTh12Be0M/s320/100_5306.jpg" border="0" />
An <a href="http://www.geappliances.com/products/introductions/induction_cooktops/">induction cooktop</a>, which so far has been great to cook on:
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5578905940784699634" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qIQTKZqiM3w/TWxBZRPJ2PI/AAAAAAAABmw/FGiQlaN3-R0/s320/100_5321.jpg" border="0" />I hid the microwave under the countertop:
<div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5578904466353795938" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YmNIdYWdm50/TWxADcjbs2I/AAAAAAAABmI/QjpcZ8o0G-E/s320/100_5311.jpg" border="0" /></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>
<p>As well as the garbage/recycling bins and <a href="http://www.askousa.com/dishwashers/">Asko dishwasher</a>, which have panelized doors:</p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5578904471751964514" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e5rpvWLb5F4/TWxADwqdN2I/AAAAAAAABmQ/uTIIaZ2KtlY/s320/100_5312.jpg" border="0" /></p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5578905939664309122" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-28x3Afr81Cw/TWxBZNECC4I/AAAAAAAABmo/GvT6JxlGxwg/s320/100_5318.jpg" border="0" /></p><p></p>Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-38216765079352739662011-02-20T20:54:00.006-06:002011-02-20T22:09:33.929-06:00Running on the sun.The mega solar array has been active for over a month now and I am pleased to report that the everything has been working very well. I designed the barn foundation as a <em>high mass sand bed storage system,</em> capable of receiving the heat from the solar collectors during the day, storing it in the concrete slab/underslab sand bed, and slowly releasing the built-up heat to the living space.<em> </em>The benefit is higher efficiency from the solar collectors (since they are operating at much lower temperatures than a conventional system with tank storage) and it eliminates the cost and space required for the large water storage tank. The downside, however, is not being able to store the solar heat for more than a day or two. I was only able to find a few resources on this method (like <a href="http://www.arthaonline.com/Word%20Files/Ramlow_SolarToday_ND07.pdf">here</a> and<a href="http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/SolarHomes/SandBed/SandBed.htm"> here</a>), but it seemed well suited for extreme climate areas like ours here at the north pole, where we pretty much need 100% of the heat capacity during the winter months and thus there is no reason to try to store it in a water tank. <div><div><div><div>
<div></div>
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5575972434552748690" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oW-awbN8LzI/TWHVYu7i-pI/AAAAAAAABlI/U3TrCoJp2LE/s320/100_5252.jpg" border="0" />
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</div>Here are a few pics of the high mass foundation system during construction, showing the underslab insulation, high mass sand bed, hydronic tubing and finally the concrete floor:
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5575985399067012754" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y_BamcY-VEc/TWHhLXgnbpI/AAAAAAAABlw/t4qhHB43zxU/s320/B0001825.JPG" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5575985394532069474" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JAtbeCyubvo/TWHhLGnZsGI/AAAAAAAABlo/5GA5TQNgY20/s320/B0001821.JPG" border="0" />
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5575985415852274066" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-52-5viK0NKc/TWHhMWCiMZI/AAAAAAAABl4/QpgffTlcyf4/s320/B0001836.JPG" border="0" />
<div></div></div>Normally, hydronic tubing would be buried in the sand bed as well as the concrete, but here we only have the upper, slab run of tubing...in hindsight, I should've installed it in both areas.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5575985387038015250" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cM44qeiPZ-Q/TWHhKqsrfxI/AAAAAAAABlg/iW0JSo0xoCo/s320/B0001908.JPG" border="0" />
The poured slab. The concrete was polished and stained to be used as the finish flooring.
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<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5575985378535218466" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BoHbhHF5AVw/TWHhKLBdHSI/AAAAAAAABlY/-FiDed5RW3c/s320/B0001883.JPG" border="0" />Unfortunately, I picked the snowiest winter in the last half-century to prove out a solar heating system, so the run time has been less than anticipated! However, when we have sun, the system is producing around 250kBTU per day, which is typically enough energy to heat the guest house this time of year. With multiple sunny days in a row, the high mass of the floor absorbs the heat and slowly releases it back to the living space- so far I have not seen more than a 8 degree change in indoor temperature during sunny periods, and we were able to make it through a cold -30F night without the need for supplemental heat one day last week. Very promising indeed. More later....
<div></div></div></div></div></div>Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-69465830678433421912011-02-08T21:14:00.006-06:002011-02-08T23:02:11.569-06:00Disentanglement.One of my greatest fears is to have a failure in the heating system's PEX tubing, which is inconveniently entombed within the concrete slab of the barn. Having thought about if for a few years now, it just doesn't seem like a good idea to seal off any electrical, plumbing or HVAC systems behind walls or under floors- while it may be aesthetically pleasing to have the nervous system of the house well hidden from sight, this makes it difficult if not impossible to upgrade or repair things that break...and sooner or later everything needs fixing, right? Alternately, the concept of <em><strong>disentanglement</strong></em> keeps these systems separate and accessible, usually in chases, raceways and conduits, to increase the adaptability and longevity of the building. I like it, and kept the idea in mind when installing the <a href="http://www.venmar.ca/Afficher.aspx?langue=en">HRV</a> system, as well as plumbing and electrical runs going to the upper floor of the barn. With all the utilities in place, it looked like this:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571529261219944610" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TVIMWAa1mKI/AAAAAAAABko/9RSstVSmaaE/s320/100_4548.jpg" border="0" />
<p>Then I built removable soffits and a chaseway to cover it all, which looks like this:</p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571531691912585730" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TVIOjfdH4gI/AAAAAAAABk4/VvIlxLt9zrM/s320/100_5287.jpg" border="0" /></p><p>Admittedly, the wood soffits wound up being quite heavy, but can be removed if necessary without destroying anything.</p><p></p>Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-81302479827433713932011-01-24T13:00:00.005-06:002011-01-24T13:26:45.493-06:00EmbellishmentsThe bedrooms are basically finished, and the guest house is at least 'sleepable' now! Here are the details:
<div><div><div><div>
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565832205944748722" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TT3O5vrD-rI/AAAAAAAABjs/xHbM8vADG-k/s320/100_5264.jpg" border="0" />We purchased a natural mattress from <a href="http://www.lifekind.com/">OMI</a> for the slab wood bed, and topped it with organic </div></div></div></div>linens from <a href="http://www.coyuchi.com/">Coyuchi</a>. The comforter is organic wool from our friends at Prarie Glenn Wool in South Dakota (we'll be getting more of these shortly- they are great). The night stands are Box Elder slabs bracketed to the wall.
<p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565832207956887202" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TT3O53KyxqI/AAAAAAAABj0/k4vqIgvysWk/s320/100_5265.jpg" border="0" /></p>The dresser was saved from the landfill and is in the process of being refinished.
<p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565832211148688370" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TT3O6DDxy_I/AAAAAAAABj8/lhToaD1ZY2Q/s320/100_5268.jpg" border="0" /></p>Bedroom #2 with similar linens.
<p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565832217993621298" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TT3O6cjvLzI/AAAAAAAABkE/N0Ku9pKcsFs/s320/100_5269.jpg" border="0" /></p><p>I made night stands from salvaged lumber and antique sewing machine bases. The lamps (made from wagon wheel hubs) were found in an antique store and seemed appropriate for the barn:</p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565832226651918066" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TT3O680CTvI/AAAAAAAABkM/JLkf9TzMLmc/s320/100_5270.jpg" border="0" /></p><p>My mom donated a really nice antique dresser as well:</p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5565833396359655842" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TT3P_CUF8aI/AAAAAAAABkU/KvLP3wvDFwA/s320/100_5272.jpg" border="0" /></p>Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-27057189198194717202011-01-13T14:05:00.008-06:002011-01-13T19:52:46.327-06:00Solar Sundays Part IX- Finishing upWe purchased <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Palram's</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">twinwall</span> polycarbonate panels from <a href="http://www.farmtek.com/"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Farmtek</span></a> to glaze the collectors. Since it is now the dead of winter, I brought them all inside to warm up before applying the gaskets.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561827090628059970" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TS-URWcHo0I/AAAAAAAABik/ZigW_wFSMrQ/s320/100_5230.jpg" border="0" />
I sealed the top edge openings with <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Tyvek</span> tape, and the bottom edge with a vapor-permeable tape supplied by <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">Farmtek</span>. Next, the perimeter was lined with adhesive-backed gasket strips.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561827082479267858" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TS-UQ4FS8BI/AAAAAAAABic/pgcuB2-c6rY/s320/100_5233.jpg" border="0" />
Back outside, I put the glazing panels up and covered the seams with cedar trim boards...as you can see, it has been a snowy winter so far.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561827097118478514" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TS-URunjkLI/AAAAAAAABis/1ms4P1_4KcQ/s320/100_5237.jpg" border="0" />
The finished solar array:
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561827109212105298" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TS-USbq5qlI/AAAAAAAABi8/gFjCCmdOqBg/s320/100_5243.jpg" border="0" />
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561827099666308018" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TS-UR4HAW7I/AAAAAAAABi0/2BUvJR5DI0Y/s320/100_5245.jpg" border="0" />
The 'closet' at the far left end of the array houses the supply & return plumbing and wiring before it goes underground:
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561829285381864370" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TS-WRGiM-7I/AAAAAAAABjE/d_3_9ANTF-w/s320/100_5242.jpg" border="0" />
The hot fluid exits the solar array at the top and connects to the 1" <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">pex</span> line below. The tee fitting at the top left leads to a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">schraeder</span> valve for purging air from the high point of the system. The two valved tees midway down the closet are for a summer bypass loop- this is yet to be completed, but will likely lead to a heat exchanger in an outdoor shower system I'd like to build.
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TS-WTPY8luI/AAAAAAAABjk/i9t9gt-aRvY/s1600/100_5241.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561829322118698722" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TS-WTPY8luI/AAAAAAAABjk/i9t9gt-aRvY/s320/100_5241.jpg" border="0" /></a> The return water enters the array bottom right. Since I separated the 9-panel array into two 'banks', there are two separate supply lines. The two stubbed lines in the middle are for a spring/fall diverting loop which will dump excess heat into our garden beds to preheat the soil- this will be connected later. The diversion is controlled by the 3-way <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">diverter</span> valve at the first tee.
<div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TS-WSqb_23I/AAAAAAAABjc/tp_1ZUcIXL8/s1600/100_5240.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561829312199383922" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TS-WSqb_23I/AAAAAAAABjc/tp_1ZUcIXL8/s320/100_5240.jpg" border="0" /></a> Inside the barn, I installed addition plumbing and controls to tie the solar system in to the existing <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">hydronic</span> system. My dad said it looks like "an organized Rube Goldberg project" and I can't really argue with that. I have managed to fit a 3-zone <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">hydronic</span> system, boiler and the solar hot water controls in about 4 square feet of floorspace...not bad. And it is actually quite simple- The solar heated fluid enters the barn through a pump (the pump is activated by a snap switch inside the first solar collector via a single-zone relay). The pump will send the hot fluid through the in-slab <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">hydronic</span> loops (2- 300 ft lengths of 7/8" <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">pex</span> tubing embedded in the concrete floor) then back to the collectors. Should the slab get too warm (say, spring and fall when not much heat is required), a thermocouple in the slab will signal an <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">aquastat</span> to switch a pair of 3-way <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">diverter</span> valves, thus bypassing the slab and sending the hot fluid to the diversion loop instead. The first <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">diverter</span> valve is located middle left in the photo below and the other in the closet at the collector array. Finally, the two stubbed lines at the top left are to send the hot fluid through a yet-to-be-installed <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">DHW</span> preheat tank. The photo below was taken as I charged the system with glycol, so the temp hoses and bucket-o-glycol are shown as well. Again, there are a lot of dangling wires since the controls for the diversion system are not yet connected, but you get the idea.<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561829299341357794" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TS-WR6iZ8uI/AAAAAAAABjM/aCTgSrP81hc/s320/100_5247.jpg" border="0" />Here is a shot from inside the utility room (actually just a 2 foot deep closet). The existing <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16">hydronic</span> system is on the facing wall, and the solar branch controls are on the left wall.
<div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TS-WSYUqhGI/AAAAAAAABjU/pnB6ceqvxLw/s1600/100_5249.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561829307336787042" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TS-WSYUqhGI/AAAAAAAABjU/pnB6ceqvxLw/s320/100_5249.jpg" border="0" /></a> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_17">SOOOO</span>, I'm ready to flip the switch- all we need now is some sun!
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<div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-41012715448180474502011-01-08T21:04:00.009-06:002011-01-08T22:15:06.820-06:00Eccorok'd all over again.Despite my <a href="http://www.greengateguesthouse.blogspot.com/2010/03/counter-production.html">previous not-so-wonderful experience using Eccorok </a>for the kitchen countertops, I thought I'd have another go at it. This time the project was smaller- making a curved vanity to fit in the silo bathroom. Since I had enough Eccorok left over from the countertop job, and my labor is still free, I could fabricate a $1000 vanity (yes, I got bids) for nearly nothing. Here is the form, made from leftover panels of <a href="http://www.rfpco.com/melamine/Duramine07/GreenCore.pdf">Skyblend particleboard </a>and other materials I had on hand. The sidewalls are strips of 1/4" plywood bent to the desired radius and held to the form with wood blocks. I cut a piece of XPS foam board for the under mount sink opening and glued it to the base with caulk. The three stubs of PVC pipe, also caulked to the form base, are for the faucet plumbing penetrations. The interior surfaces of the form were given several coats of shellac, then caulked around the perimeter. <div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5560026713348556690" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TSku1mbSx5I/AAAAAAAABiE/609fh-dMsWI/s320/100_5000.jpg" border="0" /></div><div></div><div>I mixed the Eccorok using a cement mixer in the yard, and tinted it with carbon black to match the slate flooring in the bathroom. There are no photos of the mixing and casting process because it was done in EXTREME HASTE- unlike the countertop job (done in the winter) where the Eccorok was very slow to harden, this vanity (done during late summer) set up so fast that I ran out of time trying to pack the material into the mold before it hardened. Within 35 minutes, the Eccorok was rock-hard, and I got to spend a couple hours with hammer and chisel trying to clean the chunks out of the cement mixer that afternoon...apparently, ambient temperature is very critical when working with this stuff! Anyway, here is the rough cast vanity after it cured for a few days and was stripped from the form:</div>
<p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5560026723007901122" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TSku2KaQrcI/AAAAAAAABiM/ltpqCogFiZE/s320/100_5024.jpg" border="0" /></p><p>I "wet" polished the vanity using diamond sanding pads and a small amount of water from a spray bottle- just enough to keep the surface wet, but not so much as to make a mess in the barn. Then it was coated with the same <a href="http://www.ecosafetyproducts.com/">Ecotuff Clear Coat </a>used for the countertops. I used smaller pieces of Eccorok (randomly cut from larger squares that I cast along with the vanity), to make my own backsplash tiles. Here's the install: </p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5560020219886056546" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 239px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TSko7oZMNGI/AAAAAAAABh8/sWa9HpRarhU/s320/vanity01.bmp" border="0" />I'm done with Eccorok for awhile.Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-1416395000115828152010-12-29T21:01:00.005-06:002010-12-30T07:30:08.024-06:00Drain water heat recovery.Even after installing high-efficiency water heaters, low-flow fixtures, and practicing water-conservation habits, we're still faced with the fact that almost all our expensive hot water goes right down the drain. What a waste! Fortunately, I learned about Drain Water Heat Recovery (<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">DWHR</span>) devices from a friend who has been using this technology for over a decade, and was able to incorporate a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">DWHR</span> unit into the barn. The drain water heat recovery system is basically a large heat exchanger designed to recover the heat from your shower water before it reaches the sewer system. The units consist of a large 3 inch copper pipe with smaller copper pipes wrapped around the outside. As your hot shower water drains through the 3 inch pipe it warms the pipe exterior. This heat is then <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">transferred</span> to the cold incoming water which is flowing through the smaller tubing wrapped around the drain pipe's exterior. There are no moving parts and nothing that can wear out- a very simple design and quite effective because there is lots of surface area and copper is highly conductive. By replacing a vertical section of your drain plumbing with the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">DWHR</span> unit, a large percentage of the energy in the outgoing hot water can be used to 'preheat' the incoming cold water. I installed the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">DWHR</span> pipe in a small vertical chase on the main floor to capture the hot water coming from the upstairs master bathroom before it goes under the slab. Putting the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">DWHR</span> pipe in the basement would obviously be preferred, but since this is a slab-on-grade structure we don't have a basement- this is the only way I could incorporate the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">DWHR</span> unit into the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">floor plan</span>. I installed the <a href="http://www.gfxtechnology.com/"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">GFX</span> S3-60 model</a>, which looks like this:
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556306546922175426" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TRv3Xah5O8I/AAAAAAAABhU/-0xedVjaGQk/s320/100_5204.jpg" border="0" />Before testing it out, I insulated all of the drain plumbing between the sink, shower and the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">DWHR</span> pipe. Before...
<div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556306534274022514" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TRv3WraVvHI/AAAAAAAABhE/k3EIDXxAsV8/s320/100_5193.jpg" border="0" /> </div><div>...and after. The insulating project is to retain the heat and also for sound abatement, since the bathroom is directly above the dining room. For this I used several layers of foam 'sill seal' material wrapped around the pipes and taped.<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556306535551053666" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TRv3WwKzr2I/AAAAAAAABhM/vO4GXOKXgkE/s320/100_5201.jpg" border="0" />Here is the vertical transition going into the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">chaseway</span>:
<div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TRv3XmKepcI/AAAAAAAABhc/J7EUrl01cgU/s1600/100_5199.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556306550045189570" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TRv3XmKepcI/AAAAAAAABhc/J7EUrl01cgU/s320/100_5199.jpg" border="0" /></a>
I noticed most of the water noise was coming from the vertical transitions, so I insulated this area with <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">XPS</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">foam board</span> and copious amounts of spray foam- not pretty, but it really cut down the noise and will contain the heat very well.
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<div>The building's incoming cold supply water (from our well water) always passes through the heat exchange unit on its way to the hot water heater, automatically extracting heat from the warm water running down the drain line. When I installed the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">DWHR</span> plumbing, I added two gauges for monitoring the water temp going in, and coming out of, the heat exchanger:
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556319805820891874" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TRwDbLxr8uI/AAAAAAAABhs/drwOs3WDzNM/s320/100_5202.jpg" border="0" />Today, I ran hot water through the shower to see how the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">DWHR</span> would perform- results look good! With the shower running at 101F, the incoming cold well water was being 'preheated' from an initial 50F temp up to about 72F, capturing 44% of the otherwise down-the-drain heat! The manufacturer claims up to 57% efficiency is possible with this model, but that figure is based on a drain water flow rate of 5gpm- much higher than our low-flow sink and shower will ever provide. I'm guessing that around 40% is to be expected and is still very good. And the best part- the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">DWHR</span> unit was virtually free- our <a href="http://www.mnpower.com/">electrical utility provider </a>offered a $400 rebate for installing this $500 system, so the payback should be less than one year. Even at full price, this appears to be a very wise investment and a great energy conservation project. I'd be curious to hear what results others are having with the DWHR units.</div></div></div></div>Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-17394094499830634472010-12-24T14:52:00.007-06:002010-12-24T18:12:40.973-06:00The final steps on the yellow brick road.It feels good to be actually finishing projects on the barn lately- this time its the yellow brick road. When standing in the original barn before it was deconstructed in 2007, I always felt that the brick floor gave the building a unique feel. Since the bricks were simply laid on the ground without mortar, it was easy to remove them undamaged, so we saved as many as possible. Some areas were heavily coated with oil and grease from decades of tractor parking, but the majority of the bricks cleaned up nicely using a pressure washer (thanks mom and Lisa!). To incorporate the old bricks into the new floor, I formed a meandering pathway across the new barn slab before the concrete was poured, which looked like this:
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554392031585635442" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TRUqH9HsDHI/AAAAAAAABgA/M5rLQVrT9tU/s320/B0001883.JPG" border="0" /> After the structure was roughed in, I mortared the salvaged bricks into the recessed pathway- it soon became aptly named, the 'Yellow Brick Road".
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Since the bricks were laid with tight joints, I wasn't sure exactly how to go about the grouting process. Having absolutely zero experience with tile work at the time didn't help- so I decided to leave it 'as is' and come back to it later...that was 2008! Finally, almost two years later, I vacuumed all the debris out of the cracks (which amounted to over 3 gallons of sawdust and wood chips), and got started. I mixed some home brew grout using 2.5 parts sand to 1 part Portland cement- then with my mom's help we worked the powder it into the cracks using an experimental sweeping, rubbing and putty knife-packing technique. This worked relatively well, albeit very messy.
<div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TRUqJEdrVyI/AAAAAAAABgQ/cMWYyEIZEx0/s1600/100_5185.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554392050736781090" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TRUqJEdrVyI/AAAAAAAABgQ/cMWYyEIZEx0/s320/100_5185.jpg" border="0" /></a> Working in sections, the dry grout was packed into the joint lines, then the excess was vacuumed off the top of the bricks and gently wiped clean with sponges. Once the bricks were fairly clean, I sprayed water over the dry mix using an HPLV sprayer to start the hydration process. We worked from one end to the other in this manner, taking an entire day to do the pathway.
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I gave the pathway a few more sprayings of water over the next few days, letting the grout set up. Then it required about a dozen moppings to remove the haze of grout that was all over the rough-textured surface (I had put two coats of <a href="http://http//www.afmsafecoat.com/products.php?page=2">AFM Mexeseal </a>on the bricks before starting the grouting process, but it didn't seem to help that much). After alot of scrubbing, here's the nearly finished product:
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<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554394025291180802" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TRUr8AQIawI/AAAAAAAABgo/OGWQ0geTRAo/s320/100_5188.jpg" border="0" />
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554394019280914978" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TRUr7p3LCiI/AAAAAAAABgg/ai5has7ieR8/s320/100_5192.jpg" border="0" />The grout was VERY slow to harden using this method, and required some touch up in certain places where there didn't seem to be enough Portland in the mix for it to set. I changed the sand/Portland ratio to 2:1 for the touch up work and this seemed to be much better...more lessons learned on the rocky road of barn-building.
<div></div></div></div>Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-43492480784917710952010-11-01T05:40:00.005-05:002010-11-01T06:37:10.748-05:00Heavy treading on the staircase.<div>
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<div>Since the stair-building process has become a multi-year saga, let's recap. Starting with the timber-framed opening in 2009, I framed the curving staircase and built a border on the wall side using mostly reclaimed lumber and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">wainscotting</span>.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5534536132046416706" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TM6fSfMw60I/AAAAAAAABfg/4w_sey-zAt8/s320/100_3998.jpg" border="0" />
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<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5534532366917936018" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TM6b3VALo5I/AAAAAAAABeQ/61PSxv8M88A/s320/100_4708.jpg" border="0" />
I milled slabs for the stair treads from some maple logs (these were from overgrown trees removed from the city streets in our nearby town).
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<div>The slabs were kiln dried over the winter, then cut into stair treads, planed and sanded smooth. A lot of precision cutting was required here, due to the unique shape of each tread and my choice to attempt a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">trimless</span> installation. I finished them with <a href="http://www.ecoprocote.com/Eco-Tuff-High-Traffic-Clear-Coat-s/97.htm"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Ecoprocote</span> Eco-<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Tuff</span> Clear Coat</a>.</div>
<div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5534535044167489458" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TM6eTKiN17I/AAAAAAAABfQ/wn65o-0k9XI/s320/100_5025.jpg" border="0" /></div>
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<div>The final product:</div>
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<div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5534532382329357138" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TM6b4OajQ1I/AAAAAAAABeg/Zru6VoXxgHI/s320/100_5157.jpg" border="0" /></div>
<div>I also made slab tops (these from white pine logs) for all the curved border sections.<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5534532389758570322" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TM6b4qF0D1I/AAAAAAAABeo/H7D_eopEjRM/s320/100_5159.jpg" border="0" />At the top landing, I built a small linen cabinet. The door pull was made from a hay rake handle that I found on the farm years ago (and saved for something like this).
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5534535023319453042" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TM6eR83qDXI/AAAAAAAABe4/rX3bW7IzkoM/s320/100_5162.jpg" border="0" />The stair treads have a variety of nail holes, knots, and worm holes to keep it real.
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<div>And finally, the treads were drilled for the <a href="http://alan-parekh.com/kits/">motion-activated LED stair lighting kit</a>, which is pretty cool in itself.
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Final task is to fabricate a curved handrail...I'm still scratching my head over that one.
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<div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-90860724756930922452010-10-17T20:20:00.013-05:002010-10-17T22:21:16.186-05:00Solar Sundays Part VIII- getting closer!<div>
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<div>*Warning* - this post is a lengthy, detailed description intended primarily for solar geeks. Proceed at your own risk.
<div>The next step for the solar heating project was to install aluminum absorber plates to all the copper tubes in the system. When I built my prototype panel this spring, I stamped the plates myself. While this was a lot of fun to do once, the thought of pounding out a couple hundred more was not too appealing. Plus, I found a <a href="http://www.aluminum-solar-absorbers.com/index.html">great source</a> for high-performance <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">pre</span>-stamped plates so decided to buy them instead. These plates are made with an <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">over sized</span> groove which wraps around the copper tubing to maximize the contact surface and increase the heat transfer efficiency of the solar collector. They were also custom cut to my desired length, so all I had to do prior to assembly was paint the groove area with metal primer to prevent galvanic corrosion where the aluminum and copper are in contact. Time saved= lots.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529195471870609586" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLul_JqLyLI/AAAAAAAABcA/UGTUJ6axOSg/s320/100_5072.jpg" border="0" />Normally, the absorber plates are fastened to the plywood backing of the collector framework, sandwiching the copper tubing in between. However, because I wanted a modular design that could be easily disassembled, I opted to build the fin-tube assembly separate from framework. I basically followed <a href="http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/WaterHeating/Fins/NewFin.htm">this design </a>from the <a href="http://www.builditsolar.com/">Build-It Solar website</a>, with some modifications to work for my situation. I started by laying one of the copper tubing assemblies on a plywood work surface on the ground, then spacing it off the plywood with strips of 1" foam (I used the pieces of foam that were trimmed off when insulating the collector frameworks, but any thickness would work here).<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529192783461145538" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLujiqja28I/AAAAAAAABbY/hed7V85vi9A/s320/100_5099.jpg" border="0" />
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<div>Then a 3" wide strip of aluminum flashing was centered under the first tube, between the tube and foam strip.</div>
<div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529192785580495922" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLujiyctlDI/AAAAAAAABbg/_MgqMpOxAJI/s320/100_5100.jpg" border="0" /> Using a pair of modified Vice Grip 'clamps' (I had a friend weld these up for me, but they can also be purchased from the <a href="http://www.aluminum-solar-absorbers.com/index.html">folks who made the absorber plates</a>), the aluminum absorber plate is clamped tight to the copper tubing and held in position while a pair of sheet metal screws are attached at each end, through to the aluminum strip below. The foam strips underneath keep the screws from penetrating into the plywood work surface below.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529192792039634402" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLujjKgsNeI/AAAAAAAABbo/oDKebXJluzg/s320/100_5101.jpg" border="0" />Next, the clamps are moved towards the center of the absorber plate and two more sets of screws are placed as shown. I found it beneficial to stand on the clamp with one foot to flatten out the absorber plate as much as possible before attaching the screws.
<div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLujkIvIAbI/AAAAAAAABbw/caIE7LGMd8c/s1600/100_5102.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529192808743174578" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLujkIvIAbI/AAAAAAAABbw/caIE7LGMd8c/s320/100_5102.jpg" border="0" /></a> Then, repeat the process for three plates per copper riser...
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529192814299844898" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLujkdb8ESI/AAAAAAAABb4/Ndb484PYrDc/s320/100_5103.jpg" border="0" />...and a total of 24 plates per collector.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529195474516417474" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLul_Tg_m8I/AAAAAAAABcI/SrKfJ3aWI00/s320/100_5094.jpg" border="0" />Once the collector is finished, it could be lifted off the plywood work surface and the foam strips are easily peeled off the tips of the screws from behind. The result looks as follows- great contact between the aluminum and the copper!
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529195485408529922" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLul_8F4DgI/AAAAAAAABcQ/ruuJT1Hdhr4/s320/100_5087.jpg" border="0" />The finished assembly is light and easily <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">movable</span>. I also like that the fin-tube assembly is isolated from the plywood backer by the foam insulation in this design (less mass inside the solar collector is a good thing).
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<div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529195490153726162" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLumANxOANI/AAAAAAAABcY/k_gesTGPKUc/s320/100_5095.jpg" border="0" />Two panels finished, seven more to go!
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529195498112633922" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLumAraxTEI/AAAAAAAABcg/oeUx4T6V1Nw/s320/100_5079.jpg" border="0" /> Once all nine collectors were finished and connected back into the framework, I painted the whole system with <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Rustoleum</span> High Heat black paint.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529204891626421234" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLuujc--u_I/AAAAAAAABco/nN0QfNvDCTs/s320/100_5114.jpg" border="0" />The remainder of the bull work consisted of burying insulated water lines as well as power and communication wires between the solar array and the barn. I rented a Ditch Witch for a day to carve a trench about 150 feet across the yard. I was able to get about 30" deep with this machine- not below the frost line, but since the system will contain anti-freeze, it shouldn't be a problem. When the barn foundation was put in, I included a run of <a href="http://www.thermopex.com/"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">Thermopex</span></a> under the slab and out into the yard about 20 feet. Now I needed to extend the insulated lines the remaining 60 or so feet to the solar array. Since <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">Thermopex</span> is around $12-$13 per foot, it was cost-prohibitive to use it again and I opted to make my own system (for about 1/4 the cost). I cut 1.5" <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">XPS</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">foam board</span> into strips and glued them together using spray foam insulation...<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529207995127985154" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLuxYGbadAI/AAAAAAAABcw/VvNDITR1FAQ/s320/100_5110.jpg" border="0" /></div></div>
<div>...Then put a temporary board on top and clamped it while the foam cured.</div>
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<div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529208002253320242" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLuxYg-OcDI/AAAAAAAABc4/sI8mHte2dng/s320/100_5112.jpg" border="0" />The cured insulation assemblies (each 8 feet long) were positioned over the trench and 1" <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">pex</span> lines were placed inside before foam-gluing a cover piece over each one. I staggered the seams between the top and bottom pieces of foam for strength.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529208008895872226" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLuxY5t7vOI/AAAAAAAABdA/VDLHtDAWrFQ/s320/100_5115.jpg" border="0" />Once the finished assembly was cured, I turned it on edge (it was too wide to fit in the 5" trench otherwise) and covered the top and sides with poly. The poly was taped around the insulation to hold it in place during installation.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5529208016223217778" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLuxZVA6KHI/AAAAAAAABdI/tCHeRPwcTBA/s320/100_5116.jpg" border="0" />Finally, the wood <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">cross members</span> were removed and the pipes lowered to the bottom of the trench- it was a tight fit in places, but it worked!
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<div></div>I left a couple feet of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">pex</span> on one end so the new run could be coupled to the existing <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">Thermopex</span> end using <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">pex</span> fittings. After the connection was made, I wrapped the bare <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">pex</span> with pipe insulation...</div>
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<div>...and wrapped a slit piece of 4" corrugated pipe around that before covering the area with pea rock and landscaping fabric.</div>
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<div>After pressure-testing the water lines, the trench was <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">back filled</span> with gravel to about the 4" depth, where installed a run of conduit containing a CAT5 wire and four T-stat wires.</div>
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<div><strong>FINALLY</strong>, the remainder of the trench was filled and pathways cleaned up- good as new!
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<div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5526037496300932258" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLBt0x6BjKI/AAAAAAAABaY/_AuciTkB-HU/s320/100_4640.jpg" border="0" /></div><div>I had a couple of the slabs kiln dried, and set out to build a bar top using the largest of the pieces. Unfortunately, there was some rot on one end which couldn't be cut off because I needed the full length of the slab. So I decided to cut out the punky area and put an inlay in its place. </div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5526037504582216786" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLBt1Qwb7FI/AAAAAAAABag/t0UH6CJAo_Y/s320/100_5030.jpg" border="0" /></div><div>I traced an outline around the rotted area and cut it out freehand using a router. the faces of the slab were planed and sanded smooth.</div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5526037512071118642" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 229px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLBt1sp7fzI/AAAAAAAABao/_1g3WUtBV7U/s320/100_5031.jpg" border="0" /></div><div>Inside the barn, I built a pair of support brackets using salvaged barn timbers.</div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5526037516972788978" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLBt1-6lDPI/AAAAAAAABaw/v14u_M_7Vdc/s320/100_5032.jpg" border="0" /> After finishing the slab with <a href="http://http//www.environmentalgreenproducts.com/store/ecoprocote-eco-tuff-2-part-water-based-clear-epoxy-primer-sealer-pr-16197.html">Ecoprocote Eco-Tuff Clearcoat</a>, it was set in place and screwed in place from underneath.
<div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLBuyBdBzQI/AAAAAAAABbA/mXZOF4z7xuM/s1600/100_5091.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5526038548446301442" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLBuyBdBzQI/AAAAAAAABbA/mXZOF4z7xuM/s320/100_5091.jpg" border="0" /></a>
<div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLBuxL5kJqI/AAAAAAAABa4/ZTcLoMNX5Rs/s1600/100_5090.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5526038534070478498" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TLBuxL5kJqI/AAAAAAAABa4/ZTcLoMNX5Rs/s320/100_5090.jpg" border="0" /></a> In the cut out area, I inserted an inlay using pieces of the <a href="http://http//www.concretecountertopsupply.com/store/ccp0-prodshow/Eccorok50lb.html">Eccorok</a> countertop I had left over from the kitchen countertop project.
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<div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-2449121759842505112010-10-06T19:39:00.005-05:002010-10-07T07:11:23.890-05:00Solar Sundays Part VII- Lots of Copper!Taking advantage of the T-shirt weather of October, I decided to focus on the solar hot water system until it is finished. The last few days have been all about copper- cutting, cleaning and soldering together the network of tubing that will carry fluid through the solar collectors. Each of the 9 collectors has around 45 pieces, so I set up a little assembly line for the process.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525100328473602434" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TK0ZebsQKYI/AAAAAAAABZQ/3I7Wqjs3TLg/s320/100_5042.jpg" border="0" /> I'm building the collectors in 4'x8' modules with threaded fittings on the ends to connect each one to adjacent units in the system. Thus, I needed a way to ensure proper alignment between adjacent modules so that the union fittings would line up perfectly. For this, I built a simple wood framework on sawhorses to act as a jig/table for assembling each module.<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525100363344438146" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TK0ZgdmG44I/AAAAAAAABZg/nk_nqWne544/s320/100_5058.jpg" border="0" />The vertical spacing is achieved with stop blocks at either end of the first riser, and I cut another block of wood to use as a gauge of the riser tube spacing. Before any of the fittings were soldered, I checked the assembly for squareness, length and spacing.
<div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525100342299304050" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TK0ZfPMjoHI/AAAAAAAABZY/XY5y7rbFw7k/s320/100_5046.jpg" border="0" /> Starting from the 'jigged' end (you can see the stop block in the top of the photo), I soldered the first 5 tee fittings, leaving the final 3 fittings loose for the next step. Likewise, I soldered the opposing 5 fittings at the other end of the assembly.<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525100375579767842" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TK0ZhLLPNCI/AAAAAAAABZo/UD-1xhimzRo/s320/100_5059.jpg" border="0" />Next, the partially-soldered assembly was rotated 90 degrees on the table, and the previously finished (already soldered) module was set to the left of it. <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TK0l9PT5aTI/AAAAAAAABZw/j39qCwYfrUQ/s1600/100_5060.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525114051865700658" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TK0l9PT5aTI/AAAAAAAABZw/j39qCwYfrUQ/s320/100_5060.jpg" border="0" /></a> Then, the stubs and a union fitting were installed between the two modules. The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">unsoldered</span> fittings of the module-in-process are towards the union of the two modules, such that they can be brought into perfect alignment before proceeding. With the union in place, I soldered the remaining tee fittings on both ends, but not the union itself.<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525114052745628514" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TK0l9SlsC2I/AAAAAAAABZ4/aCDFgw8jYpE/s320/100_5062.jpg" border="0" />Before soldering the union in place, I separated the two modules and attached <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1"><a href="http://www.sharkbite.com/">Sharkbite</a></span> end stop fittings at three of the corners, plus a pressure-testing assembly at the fourth corner. The module was pressurized to check for leaks. Once this was done, I removed all the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2"><a href="http://www.sharkbite.com/">Sharkbite</a></span> fittings, reconnected the modules at the union fitting and soldered the union in place. Now the modules can be disassembled and reassembled to one another using the threaded union fittings.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525114068370362002" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TK0l-My6jpI/AAAAAAAABaA/IBqoF0Q55f4/s320/100_5064.jpg" border="0" />
<div><div><div><div>Meanwhile, I installed insulation in the collector frames. I opted for 2" of insulation using a bottom 1" layer of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">XPS</span> foam and a top layer of 1" <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">polyisocyanurate</span>.
<div><div><div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525100312138363714" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TK0Zde1oM0I/AAAAAAAABZI/K7YR2PAY0R0/s320/100_5036.jpg" border="0" />To test fit the system while building the modules, I temporarily installed them as I went.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5525114080498944178" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TK0l-5-mCLI/AAAAAAAABaI/GIm_n8VI2v0/s320/100_5067.jpg" border="0" />Here is a closeup showing the union fittings in place. Holes bored in the vertical frame members allow each unit to be inserted into place.
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Next step- installing the heat transfer plates....
<div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-53942199546810724092010-09-12T20:03:00.009-05:002010-09-14T19:26:09.360-05:00Solar Sundays Part VI- building the behemothThe large solar hot water system to provide space heating for the barn will consist of (9) 4x8 collectors vertically-mounted to the south wall of our steel cargo container. The solar-heated water will be pumped to the barn's in-floor hydronic system via underground insulated PEX tubing. The nearly 300 square feet of collector area will theoretically provide enough hot water for about 75% of our annual heat requirements, as well as domestic hot water needs during the spring, summer and fall months. But so far, it has all been 'on paper', and I've been hesitant to start building until all the design issues were cleared up in my head. After much deliberation, I finally strapped on the tool belt and got to work today. I started by bolting 4x4 beams across the bottom of the cargo container, then attaching short sections of 2x2s every 4 feet to act as ledger boards for the solar collectors. <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5516200017419708866" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TI16sJROKcI/AAAAAAAABXw/t2q83iUfHEc/s320/100_5004.jpg" border="0" />
<div><div><div><div><div>I am building the array in smaller 8'X8' sections- a manageable size to lift into position without difficulty. I made the first framework today using 2X6 cedar material.
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<p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5516200025863533874" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TI16souYtTI/AAAAAAAABX4/nPdD6itAXwA/s320/100_5001.jpg" border="0" /></p>
<p>I <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">rabbeted</span> the backside of each 2X6 so that the plywood backing would be flush with the framing members.</p>
<p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5516200032508438338" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TI16tBep50I/AAAAAAAABYA/pUWcA5hpV2I/s320/100_5002.jpg" border="0" /> </p>
<p>Then screwed in place the two 4x8 sheets of plywood.
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<div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5516211239557093234" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TI2E5W_RV3I/AAAAAAAABYg/r_wCV7gqWS8/s320/100_5003.jpg" border="0" />
Because rainwater/runoff is a concern, I decided to protect the back side of the collectors by attaching a weather barrier layer. For this I used synthetic roofing <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">underlayment</span> that was leftover from the barn project. I stapled it to the plywood and taped the seams.
<div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TI16thEEhvI/AAAAAAAABYI/tv0YTgjF-cQ/s1600/100_5006.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5516200040986871538" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TI16thEEhvI/AAAAAAAABYI/tv0YTgjF-cQ/s320/100_5006.jpg" border="0" /></a>With Lisa's help, we set the finished framework on the ledger boards and screwed it in place. Mounting the solar collector array to the cargo container eliminates the labor and expense associated with building a separate support structure. But since the cargo container is only temporary (we hope to build a garage/workshop in a few years, then sell the container to someone else), the collector array must be built with ease-of-disassembly in mind. The modular design I came up with should allow the whole system to be disassembled, moved and reinstalled on our future garage with little difficulty.
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<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5516200048258761810" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TI16t8J0xFI/AAAAAAAABYQ/JfjTUgsOA9o/s320/100_5008.jpg" border="0" /> On the top end, the framework is held in place by 1 foot lengths of 2x4's, which are bolted to the roof of the container via the 1/2" lugs that I had welded on previously. The 2x4 brackets are raised off the roof about an inch using pieces of PVC pipe as spacers. I also placed 1/2" shims between the collector frame and the container side wall. The spacers on the top and sides are to allow the rain water to run unobstructed around the collector and down the side wall of the container. <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Eventually</span>, I'll also put a cap plate and a short metal roof over the brackets to protect the top frame members of the collectors.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5516200850661890066" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TI17cpVo2BI/AAAAAAAABYY/AyckIg_je6c/s320/100_5011.jpg" border="0" /> With the first section in place and looking successful, I built another on the ground and tilted it into place.<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5516928292183443218" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TJARDULlhxI/AAAAAAAABYo/AQhfQno3iKs/s320/100_5014.jpg" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5516928303397975986" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TJARD99Vt7I/AAAAAAAABYw/Rbz5UY3eJLE/s320/100_5015.jpg" border="0" />The common frame member between each two sections can't be accessed from behind to attach the plywood, so I used pocket hole screws instead, from the front side.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5516928308258013266" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TJAREQEEAFI/AAAAAAAABY4/GXl3IznCVrw/s320/100_5016.jpg" border="0" />After another day of construction, the framing is done.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5516928313686806722" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TJAREkSY0MI/AAAAAAAABZA/vltztiT6Nks/s320/100_5017.jpg" border="0" />
<div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-86208539207310711582010-08-22T19:40:00.006-05:002010-08-22T21:45:42.526-05:00The cargo container gets an addition.As the barn project nears completion, I won't be able to use it for my workshop much longer- basically, I'm being evicted! So I built a shed off the north side of the cargo container using all the lumber salvaged from our recent deconstruction projects.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5508400965616345922" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/THHFflP7I0I/AAAAAAAABXQ/OP6uk0FMCjk/s320/100_4993.jpg" border="0" />
To keep it qualified as a <em>temporary</em> structure (and I use that term rather loosely since it is likely to be here for several years), I secured the support posts with earth anchors, then built <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">gabions</span> (stone cribbing) around each one. All the framing was fastened with screws, as well as the metal roofing panels, so I can someday disassemble the whole structure and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">upcycle</span> the materials yet again.
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/THHFgicTh1I/AAAAAAAABXg/kZH82TbsIG4/s1600/100_4995.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5508400982042838866" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/THHFgicTh1I/AAAAAAAABXg/kZH82TbsIG4/s320/100_4995.jpg" border="0" /></a> <div></div><div>The shed is about 12 feet deep and nearly 40 feet long- large enough to use as a carport, outdoor workshop, and storage area...or just a nice spot to sit in the shade and watch the apple trees grow.</div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/THHFgASTgWI/AAAAAAAABXY/M3Qf4zTwgWs/s1600/100_4994.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5508400972874088802" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/THHFgASTgWI/AAAAAAAABXY/M3Qf4zTwgWs/s320/100_4994.jpg" border="0" /></a>
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<div></div></div></div></div>Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-53667685266076529152010-08-17T04:49:00.004-05:002010-08-17T08:24:28.224-05:00First flush.Installed our <a href="http://www.totousa.com/">Toto Eco Whitney toilet </a>in the silo and gave it the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">ceremonial</span> 'first flush' yesterday. This Toto model is a 1.28 <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">GPF</span> water-saving toilet that seems to be the benchmark in the industry, based on all the research I've done (and I think I've spent far more time researching toilets than I've spent actually <em>using </em>them in the past year!). Hopefully, it will work better than the <a href="http://www.caromausa.com/"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Caroma</span> Sydney Smart dual-flush toilet </a>I installed in the other bathroom, which we are not very happy with so far. Eventually, the Toto will be connected to an <a href="http://www.watersavertech.com/AQUS-Water-Conservation.html"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">AQUS</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">greywater</span> recycling system</a> to reduce the water usage to well under 1 gallon/flush.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506314707927893778" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TGpcDZuNBxI/AAAAAAAABWw/WU1_9rA5N_w/s320/100_4980.jpg" border="0" />
I also installed the tub/shower- a 1920 vintage <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">claw foot</span> tub that we bought on <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">Craigslist</span> for $75. I used a <a href="http://www.tubbyusa.com/"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">Tubby's</span> refinishing kit </a>to make it look new again, and we also had the claw feet professionally chrome plated.
<div><div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TGpcC0OagGI/AAAAAAAABWo/erdRtDi21LQ/s1600/100_4982.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506314697862447202" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TGpcC0OagGI/AAAAAAAABWo/erdRtDi21LQ/s320/100_4982.jpg" border="0" /></a> We splurged on a rather expensive plumbing setup from <a href="http://www.signaturehardware.com/">Signature hardware</a>, which looks like quality goods from what I can tell so far.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506314711806550322" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TGpcDoK8oTI/AAAAAAAABW4/-m4tvbiy0Xg/s320/100_4987.jpg" border="0" />With the curved wall of the silo, I couldn't make a standard vanity fit in the space. So I'm building a custom vanity using some leftover <a href="http://roseburg.com/products/Roseburg%20SkyBlend%20Particleboard_AR.pdf"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">Skyblend</span> sheeting</a>, barn timbers and salvaged <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">wainscotting</span>. I'll <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">probably</span> fabricate a <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">counter top</span> for it from the <a href="http://www.concretecountertopsupply.com/store/ccp0-prodshow/Eccorok50lb.html"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">Eccorok</span></a> that I have leftover.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506314718564039186" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TGpcEBWDuhI/AAAAAAAABXA/gWnKVvq0cEE/s320/100_4979.jpg" border="0" />Almost done....
<div></div></div></div></div>Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-56546551610436784222010-08-01T12:42:00.003-05:002010-08-01T13:03:36.983-05:00Two beds.Built two queen sized frames for the hayloft bedrooms- check one more task off my list! For the first one, I used our salvaged barn timbers and mortise-and-tenon construction.
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TFWzp_-iOnI/AAAAAAAABWg/nd5mpsHcao8/s1600/100_4694.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500500054032661106" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TFWzp_-iOnI/AAAAAAAABWg/nd5mpsHcao8/s320/100_4694.jpg" border="0" /></a>
<div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TFWzpcVlldI/AAAAAAAABWY/RmYLHGxAnHo/s1600/100_4970.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500500044465673682" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TFWzpcVlldI/AAAAAAAABWY/RmYLHGxAnHo/s320/100_4970.jpg" border="0" /></a> Now that I have a supply of wide slabs to work with, I decided to play with them for bed #2. The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">corner posts</span> are salvaged barn timbers, and the head/foot boards are thick pine slabs cut with the chainsaw mill, about 20" wide. I left them with a 'live' edge on top to keep it rustic looking.<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500500021857142386" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TFWzoIHSxnI/AAAAAAAABWA/_kLNfBJctSA/s320/100_4965.jpg" border="0" /></div><div>I put them together with structural screws, but pegged the holes to give it the timber-framed look. This was much easier and looks the same.</div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500500032098619938" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TFWzouRDUiI/AAAAAAAABWI/OpalLL-tfFk/s320/100_4966.jpg" border="0" />
<div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TFWzpDqnyjI/AAAAAAAABWQ/k0XEW5WhU8I/s1600/100_4967.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500500037843012146" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TFWzpDqnyjI/AAAAAAAABWQ/k0XEW5WhU8I/s320/100_4967.jpg" border="0" /></a>
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<div></div></div></div></div></div>Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-78122741769847591502010-07-29T17:34:00.005-05:002010-07-31T19:29:50.399-05:00Solar Sundays- Part VThe only bad thing about summer, besides the bugs, is that it ends too soon and often rather abruptly...it's time to be thinking about winter heating already. I've been running our prototype solar hot water heater continuously just to test it out, and it's all good, so am anxious to begin assembling the larger array that will provide in-floor heat to the barn this winter. The system will be mounted to the south-facing side of the cargo container, and I needed a way to secure the solar panels to the steel wall. To avoid drilling a bunch of holes through the otherwise waterproof box, I opted to hire a portable welder to attach some bolts to the exterior.
<div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5499462473965702690" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TFID-5BRDiI/AAAAAAAABVY/wwPYhoLw7t0/s320/100_4903.jpg" border="0" /></div>
<div>Working together, we were able to attach around 40 bolts to the container in a couple hours- a huge time savings for me! With my mom's help, we also removed all the decals, sanded down the rusty spots, and primed them for painting.</div>
<div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5499462490398864098" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TFID_2PPMuI/AAAAAAAABVo/1fU5C7CJUYk/s320/100_4915.jpg" border="0" /></div>
<div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5499462481372836786" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TFID_UnQ87I/AAAAAAAABVg/wQ8zQuGdjsY/s320/100_4904.jpg" border="0" /></div>
<div>Using an airless sprayer, we sprayed the container with green tractor paint to make it look pretty (it's gonna be here for awhile, and we didn't want an eyesore in the yard). The sprayer was awesome- painted the whole thing in about an hour!</div>
<div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5499462505295757282" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TFIEAtu7v-I/AAAAAAAABVw/ReOK4d-ezTE/s320/100_4950.jpg" border="0" /></div>
<p>Here's the view from the south. With the old garage now gone, we have clear southern exposure for most of the day- great for solar heat gain this winter:</p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5499466643698727554" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TFIHxmfFuoI/AAAAAAAABV4/2y-OVGiffm4/s320/100_4959.jpg" border="0" /></p><p></p>Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-37338935354064018552010-07-27T17:09:00.004-05:002010-07-29T17:34:06.196-05:00Tile. Work.After months of trials, tribulations and do-overs, the floor is finished. Rather than describing the ordeal in detail, let's just say that <strong>one should not choose natural slate stones for their very first tile job</strong>- I was too naive to realize what I was in for! But in the end, it turned out okay and should make for a stunning bathroom once the fixtures are in.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498715572616375122" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TE9crgq1K1I/AAAAAAAABVA/otiTpoZxiAc/s320/100_4921.jpg" border="0" /> The pillars are salvaged Douglas fir columns that we found at <a href="http://www.bhandgarbage.com/">Better Homes and Garbage </a>in Minneapolis. These are hollow, so in addition to looking cool they serve as <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">chaseways</span> for the plumbing vent stack and electrical wires going to the ceiling (A clever design element from our friends at <a href="http://www.simplygreendesign.com/">Simply Green Design</a>).
<div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TE9csJvB4tI/AAAAAAAABVI/y2nkXtYFT0E/s1600/100_4922.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498715583639839442" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TE9csJvB4tI/AAAAAAAABVI/y2nkXtYFT0E/s320/100_4922.jpg" border="0" /></a> I cut the left over stones into smaller pieces for the base trim around the curved wall.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498715587656514962" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TE9csYsrfZI/AAAAAAAABVQ/RFzTGDke8nk/s320/100_4925.jpg" border="0" /> Originally, I had envisioned an arched ceiling, but i took the easy way out and built a flat, dropped ceiling (and filled the space above with additional insulation). Who looks up, anyway?
<div></div></div>Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-7802872818503106202010-07-13T16:17:00.006-05:002010-07-13T17:23:33.310-05:00Hay loft trim out.Last week, I got back to the interior finish work in the barn. The goal is to start on the upper floor (bedrooms and bathroom) and work my way down until everything is done. Putting up trim is a good sign, as it must mean the project is nearing completion. However, I quickly found out that curved walls + arched roofs = painstakingly slow progress, and I spent a solid week milling, finishing and installing all of the bedroom trim. The hayloft area is separated into two 'semi-private' bedrooms by a partition wall, so in addition to the baseboard trim, I had to cap the top of the wall and trim that as well. The curved sections of the wall were pretty tricky and required a lot of clamps and screws to make it work:
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5493505326988920386" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TDzZ_TLkBkI/AAAAAAAABUw/Z-Urg7OV1t0/s320/100_4894.jpg" border="0" />But the finished product turned out pretty good, considering my limited skills. Finish carpentry is not my strong point.
<div><div><div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TDzZ9rfC81I/AAAAAAAABUY/qktJZJWpM84/s1600/100_4911.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5493505299153351506" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TDzZ9rfC81I/AAAAAAAABUY/qktJZJWpM84/s320/100_4911.jpg" border="0" /></a>
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5493505311003638898" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TDzZ-XoX_HI/AAAAAAAABUg/XjBzysIxMMU/s320/100_4912.jpg" border="0" />
The baseboard trim was also tedious, as I had to work my way around each of the vertical timbers.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5493505331826135298" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TDzZ_lM2EQI/AAAAAAAABU4/sddrkt1pCFo/s320/100_4889.jpg" border="0" />In all, it took around 125 pieces of trim, complete with curves and custom miter cuts, to finish the hayloft...yes, I'm really good at creating work for myself!
<div></div></div></div></div></div>Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-930227959813584222010-06-15T19:13:00.006-05:002010-06-15T20:23:02.317-05:00Ground zero.<div align="center">Between rain storms last week (why do the monsoons come when I need to be on top of a building!?), I plugged away on the garage to remove all the roof and wall sheathing.
</div><p align="center"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483160187764354722" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TBgZI8ZCLqI/AAAAAAAABTw/p2Gblz3SUaw/s320/100_4879.jpg" border="0" /></p><p align="center">Then cut the rafters out one by one and threw them to the ground. With little meat left holding it up, I tied a chain around the center support and pulled the the works down with my truck. </p><p align="center"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483160195133271714" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TBgZJX167qI/AAAAAAAABT4/AADxobtI6bg/s320/100_4880.jpg" border="0" /></p><p align="center">
</p><p align="center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TBgZKJOXWmI/AAAAAAAABUA/Edc6--Qc-dc/s1600/100_4881.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483160208389134946" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TBgZKJOXWmI/AAAAAAAABUA/Edc6--Qc-dc/s320/100_4881.jpg" border="0" /></a></p><p align="center">All that remains is to pull nails from all the salvageable lumber (which, thankfully is just about all of it) and stack it up to dry. Feels good to be back on solid ground again!
</p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5483160218768418978" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TBgZKv4-qKI/AAAAAAAABUI/uFhWhOfeEhw/s320/100_4882.jpg" border="0" />Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-3084274143070924642010-06-11T21:42:00.007-05:002010-06-11T22:45:08.595-05:00Compost happens.Soil quality appears to be one of the key factors in our struggle to become successful organic gardeners, and it seems as though the chickens are a big help in this area. I added last year's 'droppings' to the soil in some of our raised bed gardens and covered it with fresh topsoil before planting this spring and the results are looking great.
Spinach has never flourished here- it usually comes up '<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">stalky</span>' and goes to seed before the leaves have a chance to develop into anything substantial. But we both love spinach and so we keep trying. This year, our first crop is looking better than ever:
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TBL4Dd58EJI/AAAAAAAABTg/Bd7crY8ceHY/s1600/100_4878.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5481716434914250898" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TBL4Dd58EJI/AAAAAAAABTg/Bd7crY8ceHY/s320/100_4878.jpg" border="0" /></a>
...and the kale has already grown tall enough to push against the lid of the cold frame:
<div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TBL4C1ZobII/AAAAAAAABTY/CRa_QKbCKl0/s1600/100_4877.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5481716424041327746" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TBL4C1ZobII/AAAAAAAABTY/CRa_QKbCKl0/s320/100_4877.jpg" border="0" /></a>
To speed up the composting process, I've been tossing our weeds and clippings directly into the chicken pen- they go after it like a school of <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">piranhas</span>, and can devour a wheelbarrow-full of stuff in a day. This fall, I can shovel out their handiwork and turn it into the gardens.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5481715121957844898" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TBL23CwvN6I/AAAAAAAABTQ/2bNpz4iWvAg/s320/100_4875.jpg" border="0" />We also got got four more little '<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">composters</span>' this week- Buff <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Orpington</span> pullets. Here they are spending their days eating, sleeping and pooping in a little pen we set up in our office.
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<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5481716438168386274" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TBL4DqByOuI/AAAAAAAABTo/uEkydlmDG9c/s320/buffs01.jpg" border="0" />
<div><div><div>And since we haven't had much success with our compost bins, I decided to try building a tumbler to speed up the process. After perusing some examples of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">DIY</span> compost tumblers at the <a href="http://www.instructables.com/"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">Instructables</span></a> site, I made one using an extra plastic barrel leftover from the rainwater project and a support frame built from barn timbers. The barrel turns on little plastic casters mounted to the frame. I made the frame open on the front side, and high enough so that the contents could be dumped directly into a wheelbarrow.</div><div></div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5481715102912395442" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TBL217z8uLI/AAAAAAAABS4/vVgYgxEWB6k/s320/100_4872.jpg" border="0" /></div><div>I cut out a door in the side of the barrel with a jigsaw, and secured it to the barrel with a piano hinge and some bolt latches.</div></div></div></div></div>
<p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5481715107106455202" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TBL22Lb4_qI/AAAAAAAABTA/slapTSyKp0A/s320/100_4871.jpg" border="0" /></p><p>Here it is after filling with some partially-composted scraps from our bins, weeds, grass clippings, etc.</p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5481715115312639170" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TBL22qAZbMI/AAAAAAAABTI/2skb3GbIMTM/s320/100_4870.jpg" border="0" /></p><p>If it works as planned, we should have <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">usable</span> compost in a few weeks...I'll believe it when I see it.</p>Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-11193776679412582362010-06-09T22:35:00.004-05:002010-06-09T23:26:00.037-05:00Loading the EvergreenI spent a few days building some shelving in the Evergreen, then transferring everything over from the garage. Compared to the garage (think dirt floor, rotted foundation, and a plethora of animals/insects/birds calling it 'home'), the storage container feels like the penthouse suite of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">mancaves</span> by comparison. It is solid, dry, and does NOT reek of bat guano...<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">ahhh</span>, the good life!<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5480985933632532226" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TBBfqskUbwI/AAAAAAAABSQ/wNW8NmIAZuA/s320/100_4865.jpg" border="0" />With the garage emptied out, demo ensued on the structure. The skin (siding, shingles and tarpaper) came off in a couple of days, with the help of Lisa and my parents (who thankfully, refuse to act their age and are more than happy to climb up on the roof and tear off shingles).
<div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TBBfrF0c51I/AAAAAAAABSY/iIwiFEL3kvM/s1600/100_4866.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5480985940411082578" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TBBfrF0c51I/AAAAAAAABSY/iIwiFEL3kvM/s320/100_4866.jpg" border="0" /></a> Other than the rotted wood around the base, everything is solid and will no doubt be useful for upcoming projects.<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5480985948970857794" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TBBfrltQtUI/AAAAAAAABSg/oNkzokP5Nvw/s320/100_4867.jpg" border="0" />
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<div></div></div></div>Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38728704.post-68263833853284949312010-06-04T07:38:00.011-05:002010-06-04T10:22:31.861-05:00Landscaping and "The Evergreen".The unusually warm and dry spring provided an opportunity to get an early start on this year's outdoor projects. On the agenda is to remove the concrete foundation from the 2nd barn we deconstructed last year, move the fire pit, build some nice pathways between the remaining buildings, install some 'temporary' storage (and I use that term loosely), and finally deconstruct the dilapitated garage structure. Here's what the situation looked like in April: <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TAkBtK1uO6I/AAAAAAAABSI/7P32a_2fUX4/s1600/DSC_0407.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478912297188342690" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 214px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TAkBtK1uO6I/AAAAAAAABSI/7P32a_2fUX4/s320/DSC_0407.JPG" border="0" /></a>We hired <a href="http://www.danehmanlandscaping.com/">Dan the landscaper</a> for a day to do the bullwork with his Bobcat, and I helped out with the ground work and generally leaned on a shovel for most of the time.
<div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TAkAxRYhR9I/AAAAAAAABSA/RdtaOYLbWUw/s1600/DSC_0423.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478911268152756178" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 214px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TAkAxRYhR9I/AAAAAAAABSA/RdtaOYLbWUw/s320/DSC_0423.JPG" border="0" /></a> We decided to dig a hole under the foundation and bury the old concrete on-site, rather than adding it to the local landfill. It was a pleasure to watch him work, tossing around big concrete boulders with surgeon-like precision...in a few hours the site was leveled off as if nothing had even been there. <div>
<div><div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TAj-vfPbtQI/AAAAAAAABRo/GutWmqDHmzg/s1600/DSC_0415.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478909038489744642" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 214px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TAj-vfPbtQI/AAAAAAAABRo/GutWmqDHmzg/s320/DSC_0415.JPG" border="0" /></a>
<div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TAj-uEz9b7I/AAAAAAAABRY/BsdFpfryHxQ/s1600/DSC_0413.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478909014215323570" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 214px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TAj-uEz9b7I/AAAAAAAABRY/BsdFpfryHxQ/s320/DSC_0413.JPG" border="0" /></a> I also had him skim away the sod and topsoil to form pathways across the yard. We piled up the topsoil for later use in the gardens, then replaced the material with gravel fill dug out of the foundation site. Then he drove away with his big machines- with a tear in my eye, I set out to finish the rest with a shovel, wheelbarrow, and several tons of stone.
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But first, we had a 40 foot steel shipping container delivered (one benefit of America's pathetic trade deficit is an over-abundance of these huge shipping containers...so a big THANK YOU to Walmart for ours). It was plopped down behind the soon-to-be-deconstructed garage and in a matter of 15 minutes we had a 300 square foot water-tight, critter-proof building! This will satisfy our storage/workshop needs, and provide a solid surface for mounting the solar thermal panels this summer. Our container had the fitting "Evergreen" logo on it, so we named it "The Evergreen" (Lisa gave it an alternate name- the "Tunnel of Death", after we quickly discovered that it could double as a pizza oven inside on a hot, sunny day!).
</div></div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478904075559109330" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TAj6Om4kAtI/AAAAAAAABQw/kC0AOFDJS9w/s320/100_4854.jpg" border="0" /></div><div>Back to dirty work, I started laying down field stone around the house and along the pathways, then infilled with mulch and pea-rock. </div><div></div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478904111208041042" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TAj6Qrr7ilI/AAAAAAAABRQ/6jV-DYPKJTA/s320/100_4858.jpg" border="0" />One of the pathways passes by the entry doors to the shipping container, so I built up a little ramp for easy access. I also moved the pathway light posts to the new pathways and buried the low-voltage lines under the fieldstones.
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478904082334284962" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TAj6PAH4_KI/AAAAAAAABQ4/pBRSUh5xdBk/s320/100_4855.jpg" border="0" />Here's a pic of the almost-finished paths between house, barn and shipping container:
<div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TAj6PrvFV2I/AAAAAAAABRA/tPSwALzVxAE/s1600/100_4859.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478904094041397090" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TAj6PrvFV2I/AAAAAAAABRA/tPSwALzVxAE/s320/100_4859.jpg" border="0" /></a>Another shot, taken from the barn side of the yard:
<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478904101601836178" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QPOAjZCxLQc/TAj6QH5ofJI/AAAAAAAABRI/iN23bvK35sQ/s320/100_4856.jpg" border="0" />
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<div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Shawnhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10112850899667510380noreply@blogger.com0